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- LIVING, Page 74Over the Rainbow
-
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- Where peaceable wanderers gather to hug each other, wear feathers,
- dance all night and soothe the soul
-
- By JOHN SKOW/GRANVILLE
-
-
- The big conga drums stopped rumbling at about 4:20 a.m.
- on July 4, with five or six hard hand cracks, then a great,
- cavernous quiet. A visitor, sweaty in a winter sleeping bag,
- half-woke in his tent, wadded what turned out to be a loaf of
- six-grain bread under his head as a pillow and eased back to
- sleep. As he did, the drums started again, more softly:
- chunka-chunka-CHUNKA-chunka. They stopped for good an hour
- later, just before full light.
-
- Welcome home, as the quirky, wistful wanderers who call
- themselves the Rainbow People say to each other every few
- minutes for reassurance. Where's home? This time it's in the
- high meadows in the Green Mountain National Forest, a couple of
- miles westward and upward from Granville, Vt. Up, down and
- around for half a mile or more in all directions, there are
- perhaps 14,000 Rainbows. For the 20th July in a row, mostly to
- the displeasure of local and state authorities, the Rainbows
- have invited themselves to a different national forest, there
- peaceably to assemble. And peaceably to shake free of the
- plastic society, hug each other, wear feathers, wear safety pins
- through their eyelids (as a few metal-head teenagers do), dance
- all night, smoke pot (some of them), jiggle around nude (some
- of them), soak themselves with beer (a troublesome minority),
- rant or chant or quietly meditate.
-
- Need a free meal, a joint, a spiritual jump-start? Here's
- the Looney Saloon, Anni's Turtle Tea Tree, the Jesus Camp, the
- Faerie Camp (from which, periodically, a conga line of guys in
- net stockings and bras erupts, followed by a very male little
- old lady in a granny dress, carrying a purse), the
- Contradiction Koffee Kitchen, the No Guns Tipi, the Positively
- Peaceful Anti-Natural Flatfood Forum (pancakes here), the Om Tea
- House and Pooh Corner (a latrine). Lovin' Ovens gives away
- bread, and Julie, Dianne and Danielle, from Quebec, help you
- choose a flower essence to improve your cellular vibrations.
-
- The Krishna Camp feeds 3,000 people at a time from the
- best kitchen on the mountain. CALM, the Center for Alternative
- Living Medicine, soothes the wounded. Several middle-aged
- fellows from Massachusetts work for three days to get a rustic
- automatic dishwasher going: press a foot pedal, and out squirts
- warm water and bleach. For a tribe of peace-and-love anarchists
- with no structure and no leaders (their Council is anyone who
- shows up at the Main Circle), the Rainbows' disorganization is
- surprisingly effective.
-
- Michael, from Wisconsin, who is about 40, has a
- subsistence job taking care of animals in a pet store. He
- guesses that 5% to 10% of the Rainbows are street people or
- rural itinerants. Some are "Dumpster divers," who scrounge for
- food behind restaurants and supermarkets. A larger number live
- middle-class lives, often with jobs in the social services. And
- the majority are people in their 20s who work but feel estranged
- from house-and-mortgage society.
-
- Barbara, a single mother in her 30s who looks as if
- tiredness is a permanent condition, slogs up the four-mile trail
- from a roadhead at Texas Falls. She carries a big, scruffy
- backpack and a nursing baby. A couple of other kids skip ahead.
- She comes to Gatherings because "I can feel safe for a few
- days." Safe from what? She doesn't say, and it doesn't seem
- necessary to ask.
-
- Tim, from Burlington, Vt., works with the homeless there,
- and some of them have come with him. "For a week or so, with
- the Rainbows, they can be accepted," he says. "The rest of the
- time they're the scum of the earth." Too gloomy? Here's a joke
- tollbooth. A sun god (to judge from his gold headdress) is
- blocking the path with a stick. Have to tell a joke, omigod,
- let's see: "O.K." -- phony Russian accent here -- "Under
- communism, man oppresses man. Under capitalism, just the other
- way around." Laughter. We're on our way. Here's a citizen
- wearing a shirt and tie but no pants. Here's blond, pretty
- Sittora, from Massachusetts, who gives a warm, nude hug and a
- suggestion: Take off your shoes and walk slower. Here's a
- leftover '60s flower child with a T shirt that says JUST SAY
- YES! And a stilt walker, and a man with a cobra.
-
- A few miles away at the Rochester, Vt., junior high
- school, the massed forces of the Incident Command System eagerly
- await calamity. The ICS concept integrates local and state
- police and federal authorities to deal with disasters like the
- Yellowstone fires of 1988. No disaster has occurred here, but
- state police in great numbers, otherwise idle, are giving $50,
- pay-on-the-spot traffic tickets, often to enraged local
- residents not accustomed to seeing cops they don't know by first
- name. The Rainbows have kept their uproar within the family,
- have raided no chicken houses and have dealt themselves with one
- case of pilfering. In earlier years the Forest Service and state
- officials in North Carolina and Texas fought the Rainbows
- unsuccessfully in the courts. Now negotiation seems to work, and
- Y. Robert Iwamoto, Forest Service district ranger, says the
- Rainbows have lived up to their agreements, and probably can be
- counted on to clean up their trash and reseed trails.
-
- Back at the Rainbow's Main Circle, below a long, lyric
- ridgeline between Mount Roosevelt and Mount Wilson, a
- 62-year-old Wampanoag spiritual leader named Medicine Story
- makes a visitor feel welcome. He was part of the first gathering
- at Granby, Colo., in 1972. "We try to live in harmony with the
- earth, without leaders," he says. He gestures, waving away some
- undeniable shabbiness in the scene, and says, "At its highest,
- the Rainbow vision is the highest I know on the planet."
-
- Maybe yes, maybe no. But an unbeliever must testify that
- on a cloudy Fourth of July noon, when a parade of children
- marched to break a morning-long silent vigil at the Circle, the
- sun came out. And around it was a haze ring that looked a lot
- like a rainbow.
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